The so called land of the rising sun couldn’t hold his name better. I am lying on my futon bed, the jet lag is keeping me awake, I look at the light  running through the heavy curtains illuminating the room of the ryokan. I start to know each and every corner of it. It is time. I am going for an early morning discovery of Kyōto.

The silence still reigns in the awaking city under the gentle rosy and orange light of dawn, the few people I met seems to mechanically walk toward their workplace, it is still way too early to ask themselves any question. The round of the night taxis is ending, the drivers will be able to take off their white gloves while their daily stand-ins are already there, left rear door opened for some of them, ready to welcome the passengers in their lacework adorned cars which seem to be the only ones in town to not have been upgraded.

The streets are almost empty, but even if as far as one’s eyes can see there is no car approaching, they stay there, still and disciplined, waiting for the little man to turn green, or should I say blue in this side of the world. And even for a French people like me for whom the contradiction of any form of authority became a national sport since we decided to chop the head of our last king, it seems here inconceivable to not wait. I will quickly realize that it won’t be the only habit I get into here. Among others, bowing and sincerely thank each and every person I interact with, not eat while I walk or in public transport, never place my bag on the floor of the train or of the restaurants, or even wait quietly and carefully aligned for the next train to come. Japan has the culture of living together, it seems way more important to act for the good of the community than for our own one, and in times when individuality is stronger in our western societies, it is easy to understand why it is so easy get new habits... good habits.

I cross Shijō Dori and walking through small streets, I reach Nishiki ichiba, a long covered market nicknamed Kyoto’s kitchen. This is one of the staples of the life here, it was originally only a fish market, but locals and tourists are now coming here to buy fish in all its forms, fresh fruits and vegetables, but also as tsukemono  — the traditional Japanese pickles — but we can also find tea, utensils like chopsticks or knives from Aritsugu, one the oldest knife makers in Japan, whose history traces back to 1650 and who is the official supplier of the imperial family, and all sorts of local specialities — sushis, mochis, tamagoyaki (omelettes), takayaki (octopus balls), yaki sembei (crackers), etc... —  that we can take away or eat in those tiny restaurants sometimes only limited to a few chairs aligned with the counter. But at this time of the day, none of that is visible. Only a few shopkeepers are already there : one stand of tsukemono where surprising vegetables are stored in large wood buckets, and some fishmongers, who are breaking down ice blocks with a hammer with claws while waiting for the delivery of fresh fish. I head west, walk by the 1000 years old Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine and its noticeable paper lanterns to go to Pontochō, a narrow alleyway along the Kamo river where in those early hours of the day, only the postman is zigzagging on his bike to deliver the mail, but where at night the Kyotoites are gathering to have dinner in one of the numerous restaurants. 

I decide to head back to the ryokan to have breakfast, but as I get close I notice that the door of the great Bukkōji temple is now open, I stay for a moment at the door, my curiosity is pushing me in but I worry to be disrespectful. After a few minutes, a man who seems to wait for the faithfuls to exit the vast temple to welcome them in a small building, he sees me and invites me to join in. I bow respectfully, walk in, remove my shoes and take a seat at the back of the room to not disturb anybody. A monk enters and I quickly understand that this is actually Buddhist catechism. I can help but smile at myself, so much for being curious. Follows an intense session in front of a chalkboard where the monk is reading and explaining in a language I’ll only grasp a few words about Buddhist concepts that I’ll definitely won’t get the keys today. But that is without a doubt a great way to dive deep straight into the Nippon culture.

Location : Kyoto, Japan
2020